A painted army sliding around in a transport case is a grim way to start game night. Magnetised bases keep squads upright, protect banners and carefully shaded faces, and make movement trays or storage boxes work like proper hobby equipment rather than a gamble. Once you know how to magnetise model bases, it is a quick upgrade for everything from a character model to a full infantry force.
The trick is not simply gluing a magnet under every base. Magnet strength, base depth, adhesive and polarity all matter. Get those choices right and your miniatures will hold securely without becoming difficult to remove from their tray or suffering a raised, wobbly stance on the tabletop.
What you need to magnetise model bases
For most plastic and resin miniatures, neodymium magnets are the sensible choice. They are small, strong and widely available in useful hobby sizes. Ceramic magnets can work for large scenery pieces, but they need more space and rarely offer the same pull for a miniature base.
A pin vice with a suitably sized drill bit gives the cleanest result, particularly on solid plastic bases. You will also need a strong adhesive. Two-part epoxy is exceptionally dependable and fills small gaps, while thick super glue is quicker for snug-fitting magnets. If you are working with hollow bases, modelling putty or epoxy putty is useful for creating a flat seat before the magnet goes in.
Keep a steel ruler, magnetic sheet or spare movement tray nearby while you work. This is not just for testing strength. It helps you maintain the same polarity across an entire collection.
For a typical force, these sizes are a dependable starting point:
- 2 mm by 1 mm magnets for 25 mm and 28 mm infantry bases, where there is enough recess underneath.
- 3 mm by 1 mm magnets for 32 mm bases and lighter 40 mm models.
- 5 mm by 1 mm or 5 mm by 2 mm magnets for heavier 40 mm, 50 mm and 60 mm bases.
- Multiple magnets, or a larger diameter magnet, for resin monsters, battle mechs and models with high centres of gravity.
Choose strength for the model, not the base size
The most common mistake is using the strongest magnet that will fit. A powerful magnet may sound reassuring, but it can make a model unpleasant to lift from a steel tray. Pulling it straight upwards puts stress through ankles, pinned joints, flight stands and carefully blended basing materials.
Instead, aim for enough grip that a tray can be tilted significantly without models skating about, while still allowing you to remove one miniature with a gentle sideways twist. The metal you are attaching to changes the result too. Thin ferrous sheet, steel-backed rubber and deep toolbox steel do not all provide the same hold.
Test before committing to an entire army. Blu Tack a magnet beneath one representative miniature, place it on the actual tray or case you intend to use, then check it with the model fully painted if possible. Weight added by resin scenic pieces, cork, texture paste and metal weapons is not trivial.
A model that topples because it is top-heavy may need more than a stronger magnet. Widening the scenic footprint, adding ballast under the base, or using two smaller magnets near opposite edges often gives better stability. Two magnets also resist rotation, which is useful for cavalry, walkers and long-based models.
Drill a recess when the base allows it
The cleanest method is to recess the magnet so it sits flush with the underside of the base. A flush magnet means the base still rests evenly on gaming mats and does not create an obvious bump that catches on a movement tray.
First, identify the centre of the underside. Use a pin vice rather than a powered drill for standard bases. Turn slowly, clearing plastic shavings often, and stop regularly to test the depth. You want the magnet level with the rim, not buried so deeply that the magnetic pull is weakened by a layer of plastic.
For resin bases, take additional care. Resin can chip if you force a bit through too quickly, especially around thin cast sections or hollow details. Start with a small pilot hole and enlarge it gradually. Wear a suitable mask when drilling resin and clean the dust from your work area rather than brushing it around your hobby desk.
Some bases have a cross brace, moulded recess or slot that makes drilling awkward. Do not carve out so much material that the base becomes flexible. In that situation, glue the magnet into the existing recess and build around it with epoxy putty until it is level. A millimetre of putty is far easier to disguise than a cracked base is to repair.
Fitting magnets to hollow and slotted bases
Hollow plastic bases often have enough internal space for a magnet, but a magnet glued directly to the roof of the cavity can sit too far from the steel surface. Fill the cavity beneath the intended position with epoxy putty, press the magnet into the putty and use a flat tool to make sure its bottom face is flush with the base edge.
Slotted bases require one extra decision. If the miniature is already fixed into the slot, work around it from below and avoid levering against the tab. If you are assembling from scratch, magnetise the base before attaching the model. It is cleaner, safer and lets you check that the base sits flat before the miniature is in harm's way.
Set polarity once, then never guess
Polarity errors are annoying because they are so easy to avoid. If even one base is installed the wrong way round, it will repel the rest of the unit from a magnetic tray. Worse, correcting a fully cured magnet can damage the base or snap a resin foot.
Make a polarity tool before you begin. Take one magnet and mark its upward-facing side with a permanent marker or a dab of paint. Attach it to your steel tray with the marked side facing up. Every magnet you install should be placed against this reference magnet before glue touches plastic. The side facing down towards the base should always be the same.
A simple production rhythm helps when magnetising thirty or forty infantry models. Drill or prepare all bases first. Then place a stack of magnets onto the reference tool, pick one from the stack with tweezers, add adhesive to the base and press it in while keeping the marked orientation consistent. Check each base on the tray before the adhesive fully cures.
Do not trust visual memory. Neodymium magnets look identical, and a distracted five minutes can create a very stubborn problem.
Glue choices and curing time
Thick cyanoacrylate glue is useful when the magnet fits tightly in a clean, shallow recess. Roughen the magnet's glued face with a few light passes of fine sandpaper first, then wipe away dust. This gives the adhesive more purchase than the slick nickel coating.
For an especially valuable resin miniature, two-part epoxy is the safer option. It cures more slowly, but it creates a tougher bond and fills imperfect holes. Keep the base resting flat while it cures, preferably on a non-magnetic surface. If you leave it on a steel tray, the magnet can pull itself slightly out of position before the epoxy has set.
Hot glue is generally a poor choice. It adds thickness, can soften in warm storage conditions and tends to release under repeated sideways pressure. PVA is worse: it is excellent for sand and basing materials, but it is not made to secure a smooth metal magnet.
Match the bases to the storage system
Magnetised bases only work as well as the metal surface they meet. Steel sheet is ideal. Many hobbyists line plastic Really Useful Boxes, drawers or army cases with thin galvanised steel, then use foam or dividers only where models need extra protection. Magnetic rubber and flexible sheets vary wildly, so test them with your chosen magnets before lining an entire case.
Avoid assuming that aluminium tool cases, stainless steel containers or decorative metal tins will attract magnets. Many do not. A small test magnet saves wasted materials and a disappointing first journey to the club.
For transport, leave enough spacing between models that wings, spears and scenic elements do not collide when the case is bumped. Magnets stop sliding; they do not make delicate resin parts invulnerable. Particularly tall pieces may still benefit from a separate compartment or a removable flight stand.
Laserforge Miniatures forces, terrain crews and character models often reward this extra care. Distinctive silhouettes are part of the appeal, whether you are fielding grim sci-fi infantry or a fantasy warband, and a tidy magnetic storage system keeps those details ready for the table rather than the repair bench.
The best magnetic setup is the one you barely notice during a game. Your models should lift cleanly, stand flat, travel safely and return to their places without ceremony - leaving your attention where it belongs: on the next objective, the next narrative clash and the paint still waiting on your desk.
