A squad can be perfectly painted, properly based and still feel like it came straight from the same parade ground as everyone else's. Conversion bits are where a force starts to look claimed: a bionic arm on the veteran who survived the breach, a new weapon for the squad leader, a ritual mask for the warlord, or a pack, sensor and trophy arrangement that makes a standard body read as a specialist.

For wargamers and RPG hobbyists alike, the best conversions are rarely about adding the most parts. They are about making one clear idea visible from across the table. A model should tell you what happened to it, what role it performs or which faction it serves before its owner explains it.

What conversion bits actually do

Conversion bits are separate components used to alter, repair or personalise a miniature. They may be heads, weapons, arms, armour plates, bionics, backpacks, shoulder details, cloaks, icons, helmets, tools or scenic elements. Some are designed as direct replacements for a particular kit; others are deliberately more flexible, intended for kitbashing across several scales and ranges.

Their practical value is obvious when you need five similar troops to carry visibly different equipment. Their creative value goes further. A handful of carefully chosen components can turn duplicate poses into an infiltrator cell, a weathered salvage crew, a shrine guard or a Demonrift warband with a history of its own.

There is also a sensible collecting reason to keep a bits box. Damage happens. A snapped blade, missing antenna or failed joint does not have to retire an otherwise excellent miniature. A compatible replacement can restore the model while making it more distinctive than the original.

Start with a role, not a pile of parts

The common conversion mistake is choosing every interesting component at once. The result can become visually noisy: a massive sword, oversized shoulder plates, trophy racks, cables, a banner and three focal-point heads all competing for attention. The miniature may still be impressive close up, but it loses its read at gaming distance.

Instead, decide what the model needs to communicate. Is this figure a commander, medic, hacker, berserker, vehicle crew member or ruined noble? Give that answer a priority. A commander may need a striking head and a weapon that reads clearly. A battlefield medic benefits from tools and a restrained pose. A bionic veteran may need one obvious prosthetic and a few supporting cables rather than a full replacement body.

Then consider the silhouette. Broad shapes matter more than tiny details. A raised claw, flowing cloak, heavy servo arm or unusual backpack changes the outline immediately. Smaller items such as pouches, purity seals, lenses and grenades work best as supporting evidence for that main idea.

For units, establish a visual language before assembling the first model. Perhaps every scout has a respirator, each desert trooper carries rolled bedding, or the officers of your Realm of Gears force have exposed mechanical limbs. Repeating one or two details makes disparate kits feel intentional.

Check scale, connection points and game use

Compatibility labels are useful, but they are a starting point rather than a promise that every part will fit every body without work. Miniatures described at the same scale can vary in height, proportion and hand size. Heroic proportions, true-scale bodies, older plastics and boutique resin ranges can all create different fitting challenges.

Before committing to glue, dry-fit the component. Hold the arm to the torso and look at the shoulder line. Check whether a weapon reaches the correct hand naturally. Place a replacement head against the collar and see whether it sits too high or disappears into the chest. Blu Tack or a tiny ball of reusable putty is ideal for this stage because it lets you assess the pose from every angle.

Base size and line of sight deserve attention too. An oversized banner, extended spear or dramatic flight stand can be visually brilliant while being awkward in dense terrain or impossible to place within a unit. For display pieces, this may be a worthwhile trade-off. For a tournament force, clear equipment representation and practical footprint often matter more.

If you play a system with strict event rules, check the organiser's conversion and proxy policy before building. A spectacular model is more enjoyable when opponents can identify its intended equipment without guesswork.

Preparing resin conversion bits

Premium resin details reward careful preparation. Start by inspecting the part under good light. Look for fine supports, printing nubs, shallow layers of residue and any contact surface that may need flattening. Do not rush this step: crisp surface detail is the reason to use specialised parts in the first place.

Wash resin components in lukewarm water with a small amount of washing-up liquid, then rinse and allow them to dry fully. This removes any remaining production residue that can interfere with primer and glue. Use a soft toothbrush gently if detail needs cleaning, but avoid scrubbing delicate cables, blades or facial features.

Remove nubs with a sharp hobby knife, fine cutters or a sanding stick. Work slowly and cut away from yourself. For a part that must join flush to a torso or weapon grip, lightly sand the contact area on a flat surface. Test again after each small adjustment. Removing too much material is harder to correct than taking another pass with a sanding stick.

Resin dust should not be treated casually. Wet-sand where possible, wear appropriate respiratory protection when sanding or drilling, and clean your workspace afterwards. A little care protects both the miniature and the hobbyist at the bench.

Build strong joins that survive play

Superglue is the usual choice for resin-to-resin and resin-to-plastic joins. A small amount is enough. Flooding a joint tends to create a shiny rim, obscure nearby texture and extend curing time. For smooth contact points, gently score both surfaces with the tip of a knife before applying glue. The tiny scratches give the adhesive more to grip.

Pinning is worth the effort for heavy weapons, large wings, elevated scenic pieces and arms that have very little contact with the body. Drill a shallow hole into each mating surface, insert a short length of brass rod or paperclip, test the fit, then glue it in place. The pin carries the stress while the glue holds the surfaces together.

If a join leaves a visible gap, fill it before priming. Two-part epoxy putty is useful for rebuilding cloth folds, armour seals and organic transitions. Thin acrylic putty works well for hairline seams. Keep the repair subordinate to the sculpt. A smooth, believable transition is usually better than adding extra ornament simply to hide the gap.

Make the paint job support the conversion

Paint is what turns a collection of parts into one miniature. Prime the assembled model evenly, paying particular attention to undercuts around replaced arms, backpacks and bionics. If the bit has a different surface finish from the donor model, primer also helps unify the materials before colour goes on.

Use colour deliberately. A replacement weapon painted in the unit's established scheme will look issued rather than scavenged. A bionic limb in a contrasting metallic can become the focal point, especially when echoed with a small metallic detail elsewhere on the miniature. Weathering, dust and grime can tie together parts from different kits, but apply them with the same logic across the whole figure.

For a converted character, reserve your strongest contrast for the story-bearing detail. That might be the glowing lens, corrupted claw, command crest or relic blade. Everything else should guide the eye towards it. This is particularly useful for display-level centrepieces, where sculpted detail can otherwise tempt you into painting every element at maximum intensity.

A better way to build a bits collection

A useful bits collection is not necessarily a huge one. It is organised around the projects you actually build. Keep heads together, weapons together, bionics together and scenic details together in labelled compartments. Store delicate resin parts so they cannot bend beneath heavier components, and keep matching left and right pieces in the same bag.

Buy with a future force in mind. Ten distinct heads might serve an infantry platoon for years; five random trophy racks may not. Faction-specific components are excellent for creating coherence, while neutral tools, armour panels and cybernetics can cross between sci-fi, post-apocalyptic and fantasy projects.

Laserforge Miniatures' Bionics & Conversion Bits category is particularly suited to hobbyists who want those intentional details rather than another generic spare. The key is choosing parts that reinforce the miniature's job, faction and silhouette.

A conversion does not need to be elaborate to be memorable. One well-fitted hand, head or bionic component can give a miniature the history that makes you reach for it first when the next battle begins.